Last night I went to watch the Italy vs Germany UEFA final match. I went with Lorenzo, the Italian, his Italian friend from Istanbul, an Argentinian, and an American from the hostel. I don't follow European football, but I understand soccer and i understand Italian, so that was exciting. I tried speaking more Italian. I really think I'm getting better... forse...
Lorenzo wanted to go to the reggae club that I showed him the other day. Apparently, reggae is really popular in Europe. Who would have thought? I saw Hakan and Borat there...Borat was drunk per usual. Lorenzo left today back on his cross Turkey vespa trip. I'm so sad I won't have anyone to speak Italian to anymore. I was getting so used to it. But, I might run into him somewhere on the other side of the country next week when I travel around. Julien is back as well, so cheers to more friends! The hostel is completely booked. It's completely insane in the morning. Julian (night worker) and I had to work together this morning because there were so many check ins. Last week was South American crazy, this week French speakers have taken over. I'm not sure which I prefer. French is prettier to listen to, but I can understand a bit of Spanish...or at least it's fun to try.
Friday, June 29, 2012
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
andiamo in ASIA
The title is in Italian because there is an Italian ragazzo staying at the hostel and he has been speaking Italian with me, so I have been on an Italian kick and all I want to do is speak Italian. Maybe I should weekend it to Italy....hmm
So, what did I do today? I went to Asia. Just hopped right on over. It was awesome and exotic and oriental and asian...okay, not really... but I enjoyed my little trip across the Bosphorus. The ferry was great and provided a beautiful view of the city - every side. I like boats, so the ferry ride was great. I didn't exactly know where I was going when I got to Asia. I knew I was getting off at Kadikoy, which is a neighborhood on the Asian side with lots of bars, stores, and restaurants. A miniature taksim. The rest of the Asian side is just residential, unless you go up north towards the black sea where you find a few castles and some cute fishing villages. They're on my list. Anyways, so I started my tour of Asia by picking a street and wandering. Who knew where it would take me. My only goal in this trip was to walk around and check it out. See what's up in Anatolia. I started seeing all of the bars and narghile cafes. It is also similar to the Grand Bazaar because there is a street designated for everything - apparel, shoes, books. Books are nice, but I don't speak Turkish. Clothes are cool too, but I didn't feel like spending much money. Then, the greatest store ever found me. It was fate. A junk/antique store. Something out of TLC's hoarders show. There was a wall of old cameras, piles of old, leather bags, silver dishes, coins, watches, and a wall of old jewelry. Jackpot. I spent a good while thumbing through the tangled chains. I found quite a few and asked the man how much they are - ne kadar? They were a little more than I was expecting, so I didn't get all of them. Just my favorites. I would have liked to have spent all day rummaging through everything, but I had to be back by 4 to work. I was hungry so I stopped at a place to eat - Lamacun and mercemek corbasi (turkish pizza and lentil soup!) Back to Europe I go. Another ferry ride? Yay! It was actually cloudy today and perfect weather for a boat ride, breezy and misty. It's amazing how coordinated the traffic in this area of the Bosphorus is. There are so many boats passing through in every possible direction. Small sail boats and outrageously large freighters. But we made it back to Europe unscathed. I was surprisingly exhausted. I walked a lot but it was nothing compared to some days.
And now I am working again. It was a lovely day in Asia.
So, what did I do today? I went to Asia. Just hopped right on over. It was awesome and exotic and oriental and asian...okay, not really... but I enjoyed my little trip across the Bosphorus. The ferry was great and provided a beautiful view of the city - every side. I like boats, so the ferry ride was great. I didn't exactly know where I was going when I got to Asia. I knew I was getting off at Kadikoy, which is a neighborhood on the Asian side with lots of bars, stores, and restaurants. A miniature taksim. The rest of the Asian side is just residential, unless you go up north towards the black sea where you find a few castles and some cute fishing villages. They're on my list. Anyways, so I started my tour of Asia by picking a street and wandering. Who knew where it would take me. My only goal in this trip was to walk around and check it out. See what's up in Anatolia. I started seeing all of the bars and narghile cafes. It is also similar to the Grand Bazaar because there is a street designated for everything - apparel, shoes, books. Books are nice, but I don't speak Turkish. Clothes are cool too, but I didn't feel like spending much money. Then, the greatest store ever found me. It was fate. A junk/antique store. Something out of TLC's hoarders show. There was a wall of old cameras, piles of old, leather bags, silver dishes, coins, watches, and a wall of old jewelry. Jackpot. I spent a good while thumbing through the tangled chains. I found quite a few and asked the man how much they are - ne kadar? They were a little more than I was expecting, so I didn't get all of them. Just my favorites. I would have liked to have spent all day rummaging through everything, but I had to be back by 4 to work. I was hungry so I stopped at a place to eat - Lamacun and mercemek corbasi (turkish pizza and lentil soup!) Back to Europe I go. Another ferry ride? Yay! It was actually cloudy today and perfect weather for a boat ride, breezy and misty. It's amazing how coordinated the traffic in this area of the Bosphorus is. There are so many boats passing through in every possible direction. Small sail boats and outrageously large freighters. But we made it back to Europe unscathed. I was surprisingly exhausted. I walked a lot but it was nothing compared to some days.
And now I am working again. It was a lovely day in Asia.
Tuesday, June 26, 2012
no hablar espanol
This week there has been an insane influx of spanish speaking travelers and mostly south americans. The vehicle for communication switched from english to spanish, but some of us were a little left out. I understand now what it is like for non english speakers when traveling. There are about 15 or 20 Uruguayans, 3 Argentineans, a costa rican, and 3 spaniards. Plus, there are three Belgian girls who all understand spanish. So, needless to say, it was spanish crazy up in here. The uruguayans were cool, but crazy. They were on a 7 month long trip around the globe for their school, studying architecture. They said there are 200 of them, but they all stay in different hostels. All of them that were staying here were guys. A few of them are musicians and every night they played really cool spanish music.
There is also an Italian guy here, which is awesome. He has been speaking Italian with me the last few days. A bunch of us went out last night and I spoke Italian the whole night. If Professoressa could see me now! He's really cool. Drove here on a Vespa from Italy. So Italian, right?
I wanted to go to Asia today, but we were out way late last night, so I slept in and now I am working...so tomorrow, Asia it is!
There is also an Italian guy here, which is awesome. He has been speaking Italian with me the last few days. A bunch of us went out last night and I spoke Italian the whole night. If Professoressa could see me now! He's really cool. Drove here on a Vespa from Italy. So Italian, right?
I wanted to go to Asia today, but we were out way late last night, so I slept in and now I am working...so tomorrow, Asia it is!
haggling is not my thing
*/another day of insane amounts of walking. I want to map it out and see how far it really was, but that would take to much effort, so you're just gonna have to trust me when I say...it was long. The first time I've gotten sunburnt as well...I thought I was immune to it after so many days of walking for hours and not getting burnt. Anyways, I headed out early and took the tram over to the Golden Horn and walked from there up through the spice market towards the top of the hill where the Suleymaniye mosque is perched. So, there is a difference between becoming acquainted with the city and becoming comfortable with the city. I was acquainted within the first week of being here, but it has taken me longer to become comfortable. The visible gender issues in Turkey, I think, are what made it difficult for me to become comfortable. I've mentioned before about how in general and especially out of tourist and popular areas, there are only men around. I have become more comfortable with it though the more I walk around and realize that this is just how it is. However, I have become comfortable with this in the areas that I am also acquainted with. The new area that I walked around today was new and different. It was strange. The streets were different and the buildings. They weren't the old structures I am now used to. From the mosque, I walked to the ancient aqueduct. I couldn't pass up seeing it when I was so close. But seeing it was enough. I walked out of the mosque grounds and found it standing in front of me. A large street passes underneath of it and a small park sits next to it. The aqueduct was shelter for many homeless people. A man came up to me and started saying hello, the only english word he knows I presume. I took a picture and walked back into the quiet area of the mosque. It was cool to see a bit of Istanbul's ancient history, but especially considering the situation that surrounded it, I wasn't moved as I was with the ancient ruins of Rome... I'll save the emotional experience for Ephesus...
I headed back towards Sultanahmet and the Grand Bazaar, choosing streets at random. The winding roads eventually dropped me off at the front door of the Grand Bazaar. I have been wanting to find some long pants since all I brought are shorts and dressing more conservatively would do me good. I wasn't looking to haggle so I found some small places that sold cheap stuff. After wandering around the Bazaar, I stopped at a small place to eat in an alley. I had some delicious lamb shish with pita for what would be about 6 american dollars. It's hard not to eat this every day, but gotta save that dough for the trips I'm planning. The little restaurant was obviously a family owned place. The man sitting across from me talked through the window to the people grilling and almost every person that walked by stopped to chat with him and take a piece of watermelon that he was offering out. He went through three platters of it. He even offered me some. At one point, a woman and young girl sat down and ate with him, I'm guessing his wife and daughter. They left and he stayed. Many other people sat down to eat or talk with him. I think I mentioned before how it seems like they think of eating as an equal part of the day as any other. It's not separate and excluded. They don't take a break to eat, it is continuous with the rest of their day. There were two little boys who hung around on the winding stairs inside the small kitchen area. The grill man would have them run Ayran and money to the customers. (Ayran is a yogurt drink that's everywhere). They were so cute. There was a little girl who looked about 2 who sleepily came down the stairs to the arms of the grill man. I'm guessing her father... She was precious. They gave me free tea at the end of the meal. The man who served me started talking to me as I was leaving. He spoke english fairly well. He told me about how he leaves for the military in a few days and how he is so lucky to be going to Antalya and not to the east where all the Kurdish "terrorists" are. I was interested, but left after just a few minutes. I wish I would have stayed and talked to him more though becasue later I realized how perfect what he was telling me is for my research. I need more participants, but mostly women.
After this, I decided I could use some more walking and headed towards Istiklal and eventually to the hostel. I wanted to go to the Galata bridge to watch the sunset later. These two new zealanders and a french girl came with me. I talked with one of the new zealanders for a long time. She is teaching english in Kurdistan currently and it sounds awesome. She said it has been great for her and she has plenty of time to travel - after Istanbul, she is going to Amman. The sunset was so pretty. I can't wait to see it from Asia, which I think I will do tomorrow.
I was planning to go to Izmir, Ephesus, and Pamukkale today and for the next two days, but Sedat said it would be better to do a big round trip journey to all of the places I want to go. So, I think I will do that later in July - bring on the heat, baby!
I headed back towards Sultanahmet and the Grand Bazaar, choosing streets at random. The winding roads eventually dropped me off at the front door of the Grand Bazaar. I have been wanting to find some long pants since all I brought are shorts and dressing more conservatively would do me good. I wasn't looking to haggle so I found some small places that sold cheap stuff. After wandering around the Bazaar, I stopped at a small place to eat in an alley. I had some delicious lamb shish with pita for what would be about 6 american dollars. It's hard not to eat this every day, but gotta save that dough for the trips I'm planning. The little restaurant was obviously a family owned place. The man sitting across from me talked through the window to the people grilling and almost every person that walked by stopped to chat with him and take a piece of watermelon that he was offering out. He went through three platters of it. He even offered me some. At one point, a woman and young girl sat down and ate with him, I'm guessing his wife and daughter. They left and he stayed. Many other people sat down to eat or talk with him. I think I mentioned before how it seems like they think of eating as an equal part of the day as any other. It's not separate and excluded. They don't take a break to eat, it is continuous with the rest of their day. There were two little boys who hung around on the winding stairs inside the small kitchen area. The grill man would have them run Ayran and money to the customers. (Ayran is a yogurt drink that's everywhere). They were so cute. There was a little girl who looked about 2 who sleepily came down the stairs to the arms of the grill man. I'm guessing her father... She was precious. They gave me free tea at the end of the meal. The man who served me started talking to me as I was leaving. He spoke english fairly well. He told me about how he leaves for the military in a few days and how he is so lucky to be going to Antalya and not to the east where all the Kurdish "terrorists" are. I was interested, but left after just a few minutes. I wish I would have stayed and talked to him more though becasue later I realized how perfect what he was telling me is for my research. I need more participants, but mostly women.
After this, I decided I could use some more walking and headed towards Istiklal and eventually to the hostel. I wanted to go to the Galata bridge to watch the sunset later. These two new zealanders and a french girl came with me. I talked with one of the new zealanders for a long time. She is teaching english in Kurdistan currently and it sounds awesome. She said it has been great for her and she has plenty of time to travel - after Istanbul, she is going to Amman. The sunset was so pretty. I can't wait to see it from Asia, which I think I will do tomorrow.
I was planning to go to Izmir, Ephesus, and Pamukkale today and for the next two days, but Sedat said it would be better to do a big round trip journey to all of the places I want to go. So, I think I will do that later in July - bring on the heat, baby!
Saturday, June 23, 2012
quote of today
"Hello spice girl! You want to see my jeans, darling?"
the grand bazaar is rather bizarre
the grand bazaar is rather bizarre
Friday, June 22, 2012
Thursday, June 21, 2012
Yesterday was awesome. A nice day wandering around by myself. One of those days where you have a set plan - you want to get this and this and this done. But you end up doing none of those. And despite it being what seems like a very unproductive day, it was great. I had planned to go to Bogazici University's campus to see if I could find someone, like a professor, to talk to. Then I wanted to go to Rumelihisari, a fort/palace. The one from which sultan mehmed II besieged Constantinople for the Ottomans in 1453. The fort is right next to the campus, so I figured why not. The campus is in Bebek/Rumelihisarustu, neighborhoods north of Beyoglu (where I live) along the straight. I had to take the bus there, which I wasn't thrilled about. I've gotten used to just walking everywhere and a first attempt at figuring out the bus system was daunting. I'm extremely lucky to live where I do.
I was about to leave and Shima stopped by! She was headed to Taksim, so I walked with her. She was meeting a friend there for lunch. She invited me to eat with them, so we went to one of the turkish buffet places that are very popular here. One of the things I love about the people here, not just Turkish, but other people as well, is their generosity at meal times. It seems like eating isn't time for yourself, a break from what you were doing, separated from the rest of the day. They always eat with other people. I've been asked so many times to eat with someone and so many times I have had a meal bought for me. Even if someone has already gotten food they will offer you some or just give you some. Sedat does that a lot since he is always around the hostel he orders from a couple of resturants nearby and eats in the hostel. A couple of times he has saved me something for later or offered me to eat with him. I haven't quite figured out the etiquette for this yet because I usually decline. I feel like normally, from Americans at least, this is just a nice gesture but not always an invitation. But everytime I decline, I feel like I offend the person.
Anyways...I had this sausage on a gourd thing. Delicious. Shima's friend, also Iranian paid for our food. (see what I mean) They tried to tell me what bus to use and I headed for the tangled mess of a bus terminal. The trip up to Bebek was pretty far. It was about a 30 min ride. The districts farther outside the city are so different. Not only are they modern, but they look modern. The buildings are either fresh or in progress. The last stopped unloaded right at the entrance to the university campus. I hadn't been up there so I didn't know what to expect. And what I found was the coolest campus. It is built on the side of a hill (remember the hills?) that overlooks the Bosphorus. It's very green, but every few steps there is an overlook with seating that gazes out across the hillside, the Bosphorus, the bay area of Bebek dotted with yachts, and the green and wealthy asian side. This city is prime for beautiful vistas. The pictures I took are mediocre in comparison to reality. I walked around the campus, down. All the way to the sea. I didn't find anyone to tlak to and the museum I wanted to go to was closed. I couldn't find the entrance to the fort either.
The exit road spilled out to a boardwalk type thing along the water. Good thing the Bosophorus is full of hamsi (the little fish) because Istnabul is full of fishermen. I walked along the water for a good hour back towards home. Yacht after flashy yacht clung to the walkway, squeaking against the buoys between them as they bobbed in the choppy water. It was very windy out, but the sun blazed like always. I was hungry, but all that was around were nice cafes on the waterfront. I knew they would be expensive, but food was calling my name. I sat down under these giant umbrellas that swayed dangerously in the wind at a place called la sirene. Am I still in Turkey. I felt like I had stepped out of Istanbul and into the French Riviera. French music played and the people were decked in nice clothes and jewelry, covered by blankets given to them by the waiters. I had the most delicious steak wrap that was 16 lira...8 bucks...really not that bad for tasting so good. The water was beautiful so I hung around before I realized I had only two hours to get back. I really wanted to take the ferry back, but the closest one only went across the Bosphorus and not down it, so the bus again!
I got off at Ortakoy because I wanted to walk around the shops. It was the same place that I went with Daniel and Julien awhile back. I walked back to the stray cat from there...another hour walk. I decided to reward myself with some ice cream :) A delicious end to my day.
I was about to leave and Shima stopped by! She was headed to Taksim, so I walked with her. She was meeting a friend there for lunch. She invited me to eat with them, so we went to one of the turkish buffet places that are very popular here. One of the things I love about the people here, not just Turkish, but other people as well, is their generosity at meal times. It seems like eating isn't time for yourself, a break from what you were doing, separated from the rest of the day. They always eat with other people. I've been asked so many times to eat with someone and so many times I have had a meal bought for me. Even if someone has already gotten food they will offer you some or just give you some. Sedat does that a lot since he is always around the hostel he orders from a couple of resturants nearby and eats in the hostel. A couple of times he has saved me something for later or offered me to eat with him. I haven't quite figured out the etiquette for this yet because I usually decline. I feel like normally, from Americans at least, this is just a nice gesture but not always an invitation. But everytime I decline, I feel like I offend the person.
Anyways...I had this sausage on a gourd thing. Delicious. Shima's friend, also Iranian paid for our food. (see what I mean) They tried to tell me what bus to use and I headed for the tangled mess of a bus terminal. The trip up to Bebek was pretty far. It was about a 30 min ride. The districts farther outside the city are so different. Not only are they modern, but they look modern. The buildings are either fresh or in progress. The last stopped unloaded right at the entrance to the university campus. I hadn't been up there so I didn't know what to expect. And what I found was the coolest campus. It is built on the side of a hill (remember the hills?) that overlooks the Bosphorus. It's very green, but every few steps there is an overlook with seating that gazes out across the hillside, the Bosphorus, the bay area of Bebek dotted with yachts, and the green and wealthy asian side. This city is prime for beautiful vistas. The pictures I took are mediocre in comparison to reality. I walked around the campus, down. All the way to the sea. I didn't find anyone to tlak to and the museum I wanted to go to was closed. I couldn't find the entrance to the fort either.
The exit road spilled out to a boardwalk type thing along the water. Good thing the Bosophorus is full of hamsi (the little fish) because Istnabul is full of fishermen. I walked along the water for a good hour back towards home. Yacht after flashy yacht clung to the walkway, squeaking against the buoys between them as they bobbed in the choppy water. It was very windy out, but the sun blazed like always. I was hungry, but all that was around were nice cafes on the waterfront. I knew they would be expensive, but food was calling my name. I sat down under these giant umbrellas that swayed dangerously in the wind at a place called la sirene. Am I still in Turkey. I felt like I had stepped out of Istanbul and into the French Riviera. French music played and the people were decked in nice clothes and jewelry, covered by blankets given to them by the waiters. I had the most delicious steak wrap that was 16 lira...8 bucks...really not that bad for tasting so good. The water was beautiful so I hung around before I realized I had only two hours to get back. I really wanted to take the ferry back, but the closest one only went across the Bosphorus and not down it, so the bus again!
I got off at Ortakoy because I wanted to walk around the shops. It was the same place that I went with Daniel and Julien awhile back. I walked back to the stray cat from there...another hour walk. I decided to reward myself with some ice cream :) A delicious end to my day.
Wednesday, June 20, 2012
I have been working the last three days, so I haven't been able to do anything until late. Yesterday I went to meet Hakan around 8 and found that this is the best time on Istiklal. It was the busiest I've seen it and this is when street performers come out. Older men play these really pretty sounding, I'm guessing traditionally Turkish, instruments. Kind of like Violins. I saw clowns too... And there was a protest. When I met Hakan we walked all the way to Eminnonu across the Galata bridge. We went to a really great restaurant. I've found my new favorite Turkish food - Lentil soup. Yeah, sounds disgusting. I know. But it is amazing and they always give you pita with it. So good. We also had Lamahcun. Turkish pizza apparently. Made on flat bread and rolled up with tomatoes and lettuce. Hakan will talk your ear off...about America. The last thing I ever want to talk about. It gets annoying, but I understand why he talks about it. I just don't think he realizes that not everyone loves America as much as he does. Not even some Americans. Especially ones living in Turkey to learn about Turkish culture. Oh well, it makes for an interesting subject for my research. Plus, he took me up the Galata Tower after dark, which was AWESOME. Boy do I know how to friend that right people....haha.
Later we met up with some people from the hostel and went to Leyla Terrace. A band was playing really awesome Greek music, but I was so tired, so I left early...well early for me I guess.
Today, I don't have to work until 7. I'm going to take the bus up north to some of the neighborhoods by Bogazici University. I'll post about it later.
Later we met up with some people from the hostel and went to Leyla Terrace. A band was playing really awesome Greek music, but I was so tired, so I left early...well early for me I guess.
Today, I don't have to work until 7. I'm going to take the bus up north to some of the neighborhoods by Bogazici University. I'll post about it later.
Monday, June 18, 2012
hmmm
Lately I have been thinking of not going to Bulgaria. I would be out a couple hundred dollars, but I have something different in mind. I am considering instead staying in Turkey, not in Istanbul, but going somewhere south or east to live. Istanbul is one, very radical side of Turkey and I would like to see something different. Not just other places, like I want to go to Ephesus and Capadoccia and places like that. But I would also like to see life in another area of Turkey. The living situations and people of maybe the rural, Kurdish Anatolia or farmlife along the southern coast. I would miss out on something great. A great opportunity to try something I could maybe do later in life, but I'm starting to think that it's not what I really will want to do. And I think that I should focus my attention on one thing...Turkey. That being said, I don't think I can truly understand Turkish heritage unless I leave Istanbul for awhile.
disposable and comfortable
I've been slacking on the posts... it's been a busy couple of days. The latest set of people that have been here about a week and leave within the next couple of days. Disposable friends? I love everyone I've met and most of them I have gotten contact information from - facebook or email. But after a week they just disappear. Who knows if I will see them again. Every person has been fantastic though. Everyone is so interesting.
Alisha - young San Fransiscan. Rather loud and bold. Speaks her mind. Really interesting and hilarious to drink with. She'll dance all night if you let her.
Paddy and Ione - really the first British people I've known. They are each from different sides of England. Paddy, from London, is calm and speaks slowly whereas Ione, who is from Cumbria, is outrageously funny and loud. I can hardly understand her sometimes because she speaks like a Scot. She'll drink to no end and she has the most entertaining stories. Today is her birthday, so we celebrated last night. At araf. again.
Alessandro - the Brazilian tattoo artist. Greatest accent ever. He's like 35, really short and really sweet. My favorite is when he speaks Portuguese to the kitty. He nicknamed her Macacina (little monkey). He has been here for about 11 days, so I've gotten to talk to him a lot. Really funny guy.
Zach and Ryan - American students and my age. It was nice hearing about traveling from someone more similar to me. Ryan was cocky, but so smart and could talk your ear off despite his supposed social ineptness. Zach was different, very passionate about what he was doing and sincerely interested in the people he was meeting.
Shima - not necessarily disposable, although she quit working at the hostel. She'll be around and I have her number, but I won't see her every day anymore. She's extremely smart and one of the most interesting people I've met.
Josh - quite the character....he left for Sharjah last week. Kind of odd, but extremely hilarious.
Sedat - one of those onion people that you don't understand until you peel back the layers. He is one of my participants for my research, so in talking to him I've learned a lot about him. At first he seems really intimidating and maybe scary, but he's really nice and really cares about the people staying at his hostel.
Julien - Talks a lot, but you cant help but lısten. coming back from Iran in a week or so.
Every time that someone leaves I get a sinking feeling that I am going to be all alone, but then I think of how easy it was the last time around to meet people. You'll hear about someone new soon. The lone travelers are the best because they are genuinely looking to meet people and experience traveling in this way.
This morning I went to eat with Alisha near the Bosphorus. She needed American coffee, so we went to this coffee house chain type place. After we walked over by the water and sat for awhile. It really is beautiful, even with the Asian side behind it. I am dying to go over there to see the view from the other side, with the more bustling European side in sight.
I went up in the Galata Tower again - fo free :) I'll explain in a minute. I thought it was quite a sight the first time, but the haze blocked much of the distance. In comparison to the second time, it was rather mediocre. The clear blue skies exposed the horizon of perfectly carved mountains, the distant Prince's islands, and every spiked minaret in exact and colorful detail. As it does to everyone, a sky high panorama leaves me in awe and this is probably the most anticipated sight that didn't disappoint. The skyline is not the only thing I'm falling in love with though. I do realize that my idea of Istanbul and life here is still a bit naive and romanticized, but it is more real than my outside perceptions, or misconceptions...before I arrived. I do have a better idea of reality. There is corruption and crime everywhere, but from talking to people here, I know more about the situations and living conditions of today in Turkey. I've seen parts of the city that are raw and condemned...and condemning, but I think they are beautiful. The city is beautiful because of these places with a past. A past that is rather unforgivable and morbid. They have scarred Istanbul and made it a city unlike any other in the world.
It's strange how my comfort with the city has changed. I remember one of the first days I was here, I walked not too far to look at an apartment. I remember thinking am I in a slum? The buildings look rundown, only men sit on stoops outside little shack-like fruit stands and tiny tea cafes, they all stare at you. The street in general looks neglected. I must be in a bad part of town. I was genuinely afraid. It was quite a shock for a first meandering. Well this was in the same neighborhood that I talked about earlier - Cihangir. Yeah, the one that I live in, that I raved about, that is so beautiful. I realize now that I had a completely misunderstood interpretation in my introduction to the micro level of Istanbul. After many times now of walking around this neighborhood, it has become ordinary. I think my interpretation was shaped by what I knew before, what I was used to, back home. Something completely different. Suburbia ain't no 300 year old, winding, Ottoman and Levantine streets. It's weird that something or some place that stirred so much uneasiness and fear in me now possesses such happiness. I really just absolutely love walking around these streets. Imagining where I am in the mess of the city as a whole, where I would look to find myself on the macro scale, from atop the galata tower.
The research is moving slowly, but so far I have a couple participants. Sedat is one. A friend of his is another. And a guy Shima introduced me to is the last. His name is Hakan. I met with him yesterday for the first time. We went to a cafe and had iced tea and talked. Interviewing him should be interesting because he studied in America for a few years and so he talks a lot about American culture and Turkish culture. He's interesting so far. He works in the Galata Tower, so that's how I got up for free! woohoo!
Last night nearly the whole hostel went out again. Sedat didn't come out until later, so I was the shepherd as Alisha called me, herding everyone down the busy drag of Istiklal. I actually didn't know where I was going and we had to ask a few people. They made fun of me :( So on the way home later that night I took a long way back that no one knew and dragged them around small streets in Tophane and Cihangir, a very hilly area. They weren't too pleased...whoops.
Alisha - young San Fransiscan. Rather loud and bold. Speaks her mind. Really interesting and hilarious to drink with. She'll dance all night if you let her.
Paddy and Ione - really the first British people I've known. They are each from different sides of England. Paddy, from London, is calm and speaks slowly whereas Ione, who is from Cumbria, is outrageously funny and loud. I can hardly understand her sometimes because she speaks like a Scot. She'll drink to no end and she has the most entertaining stories. Today is her birthday, so we celebrated last night. At araf. again.
Alessandro - the Brazilian tattoo artist. Greatest accent ever. He's like 35, really short and really sweet. My favorite is when he speaks Portuguese to the kitty. He nicknamed her Macacina (little monkey). He has been here for about 11 days, so I've gotten to talk to him a lot. Really funny guy.
Zach and Ryan - American students and my age. It was nice hearing about traveling from someone more similar to me. Ryan was cocky, but so smart and could talk your ear off despite his supposed social ineptness. Zach was different, very passionate about what he was doing and sincerely interested in the people he was meeting.
Shima - not necessarily disposable, although she quit working at the hostel. She'll be around and I have her number, but I won't see her every day anymore. She's extremely smart and one of the most interesting people I've met.
Josh - quite the character....he left for Sharjah last week. Kind of odd, but extremely hilarious.
Sedat - one of those onion people that you don't understand until you peel back the layers. He is one of my participants for my research, so in talking to him I've learned a lot about him. At first he seems really intimidating and maybe scary, but he's really nice and really cares about the people staying at his hostel.
Julien - Talks a lot, but you cant help but lısten. coming back from Iran in a week or so.
Every time that someone leaves I get a sinking feeling that I am going to be all alone, but then I think of how easy it was the last time around to meet people. You'll hear about someone new soon. The lone travelers are the best because they are genuinely looking to meet people and experience traveling in this way.
This morning I went to eat with Alisha near the Bosphorus. She needed American coffee, so we went to this coffee house chain type place. After we walked over by the water and sat for awhile. It really is beautiful, even with the Asian side behind it. I am dying to go over there to see the view from the other side, with the more bustling European side in sight.
I went up in the Galata Tower again - fo free :) I'll explain in a minute. I thought it was quite a sight the first time, but the haze blocked much of the distance. In comparison to the second time, it was rather mediocre. The clear blue skies exposed the horizon of perfectly carved mountains, the distant Prince's islands, and every spiked minaret in exact and colorful detail. As it does to everyone, a sky high panorama leaves me in awe and this is probably the most anticipated sight that didn't disappoint. The skyline is not the only thing I'm falling in love with though. I do realize that my idea of Istanbul and life here is still a bit naive and romanticized, but it is more real than my outside perceptions, or misconceptions...before I arrived. I do have a better idea of reality. There is corruption and crime everywhere, but from talking to people here, I know more about the situations and living conditions of today in Turkey. I've seen parts of the city that are raw and condemned...and condemning, but I think they are beautiful. The city is beautiful because of these places with a past. A past that is rather unforgivable and morbid. They have scarred Istanbul and made it a city unlike any other in the world.
It's strange how my comfort with the city has changed. I remember one of the first days I was here, I walked not too far to look at an apartment. I remember thinking am I in a slum? The buildings look rundown, only men sit on stoops outside little shack-like fruit stands and tiny tea cafes, they all stare at you. The street in general looks neglected. I must be in a bad part of town. I was genuinely afraid. It was quite a shock for a first meandering. Well this was in the same neighborhood that I talked about earlier - Cihangir. Yeah, the one that I live in, that I raved about, that is so beautiful. I realize now that I had a completely misunderstood interpretation in my introduction to the micro level of Istanbul. After many times now of walking around this neighborhood, it has become ordinary. I think my interpretation was shaped by what I knew before, what I was used to, back home. Something completely different. Suburbia ain't no 300 year old, winding, Ottoman and Levantine streets. It's weird that something or some place that stirred so much uneasiness and fear in me now possesses such happiness. I really just absolutely love walking around these streets. Imagining where I am in the mess of the city as a whole, where I would look to find myself on the macro scale, from atop the galata tower.
The research is moving slowly, but so far I have a couple participants. Sedat is one. A friend of his is another. And a guy Shima introduced me to is the last. His name is Hakan. I met with him yesterday for the first time. We went to a cafe and had iced tea and talked. Interviewing him should be interesting because he studied in America for a few years and so he talks a lot about American culture and Turkish culture. He's interesting so far. He works in the Galata Tower, so that's how I got up for free! woohoo!
Last night nearly the whole hostel went out again. Sedat didn't come out until later, so I was the shepherd as Alisha called me, herding everyone down the busy drag of Istiklal. I actually didn't know where I was going and we had to ask a few people. They made fun of me :( So on the way home later that night I took a long way back that no one knew and dragged them around small streets in Tophane and Cihangir, a very hilly area. They weren't too pleased...whoops.
Sunday, June 17, 2012
I've been sick the past couple of days, but Alisha, who is staying in the same room as me and is one of those walking pharmacies...practically saved me with her meds. I was pretty bad two nights ago. Running a fever. Not fun. I think it was a mix of no sleep, being out in the heat, and still not being used to the food that did it. But, I'm much better now. Still not really able to eat much. Yesterday I went down the street to the fruit vendor and stocked up on deliciousness. I love going to the fruit vendor because I can speak all in Turkish to him! Last night nearly the whole entire hostel went out to the bars together. There was a couple from South Africa, three German guys, the two Sweedish girls, two Russian girls, Alisha, Ione and Paddy, and I. Sedat took us to some club, but it sucked, so we went to Araf again. I love that place. The music was different again though. This time there was no band and it was much more crowded. A DJ played different music, but a lot of random American songs as well...I get knocked down was thrown in there somewhere. It was a fun night. I love that I can find my way home now. Sedat left early, so I had to navigate a bunch of us back to the hostel. Luckily, we are only about 10 minutes from Taksim, where all the nightlife is. I was feeling fine enough to go out (it was Ione's birthday, so I had too...) but I didn't drink any. The very heavy Efes would not have agreed with me. Plus I had to work this morning at 8:30, so that would have been a bad idea.
Saturday, June 16, 2012
the two Sofias
I haven't written in a few days. There is a new batch of people here. I've been hanging out mostly with Alicia (american), Clara (german), and Ione and Paddy (English). Yesterday, Clara, Alicia, and I went out. I joined them at the Ayasofia since I hadn't been yet. I was rather excited and it didn't disappoint. Unlike the Blue Mosque, the ancient Byzantine structure was breathtaking with it's Christian and Muslim aspects. Here you can go up to the second floor that wraps around the main room. It was so beautiful. I tried to get a guide to talk to me about his research, but he said time is his money and he would only talk to me if I paid 50 lira for a tour... not happening. I gotta have money too, buddy. Anyways, after we went to the Basilica Cistern. Now this is really something. And something I wasn't expecting. It was a huge room that held water to feed the city. Much bigger than I thought it was. It went on forever. Kinda eerie with very dark lighting and water dripping from the ceiling. In the very back there are two pillars that sit on statues of Medusa's head. One is flipped sideways, the other upside down. Very mysterious.
We walked around the bazaar area that I found awhile back. There was a kitten next to a store that we stopped to play with. The man handed it to us and told us to take it... so we brought it back to the hostel...that was a mistake. Sedat wasn't too thrilled and now it's my responsibility...oops. It is super adorable, but a feisty little thing. We named her Sofia...so original haha
I wasn't feeling well yesterday. I think something made me sick, so I went to bed early. I'm still not feeling too great, so I don't think I am going to do much today
Thursday, June 14, 2012
Last night the hostel became a tattoo shop. There is a guy staying here from Brazil who does tattoos and he carries a mini tattoo set when he travels. This girl from England wanted one, so, Alessandro got out his tattoo kit and started setting up. We were all amazed at how professional he was. He covered everything in saran wrap and went through about 50 pairs of rubber gloves. The girl, Ione, was more than entertaining. She had the funniest expressions throughout the process and was drinking, so about halfway through she said she could no longer feel pain. It was almost as entertaining as her argument with Julien the other night (the one about animal rights...). She has a scottish accent, which made it even more entertaining. I've never seen anyone get a tattoo before. It was very amusing.
Wednesday, June 13, 2012
old trinkets and modern art
Well, like I said, everyone I had met had to leave eventually. Last night Julien left for Iran and he was really the last of the first people I met to head out. So, although I have met other people at the hostel, today I spent alone. But after so many days with lots of other people, it was nice to spend the day by myself. There were a couple places I wanted to go, so I headed to them and basically got lost in between each stop. The neighborhood the hostel is in is called Cihangir. I think I've said this before, but whatever... So Cihangir is a pretty expensive neighborhood for Turkish standards, but since the lira isn't that great, a lot of international students live there, plus rich Turks. Anyways...it's a really idyllic neighborhood of colorful, old, residential buildings and cobbled streets. Naturally, it would be the place to find Turkish antiques. And that is what I found when I wandered through it: antique shop after antique shop. It was great. Lots of old bicycles, suitcases, and jewelry. My destination, however, was the museum of innocence. There is this famous Turkish author, Orhan Pamuk, who actually lives in Cihangir, and has created this museum as representation in reality of his novel by the same name. He writes about Istanbul mostly. I would loveee to talk to him about my research, but I'm sure he is a very busy man. I've read part of one and am currently reading another. He's different, but I would recommend him. I asked Sedat yesterday if he had read him and he said he didn't really like him because his writing was more western than Turkish... Apparently, he had his brother as a professor when he was in school. Pretty cool. So, I went to the museum. It was really awesome. It was like a reflection of modern Turkey in the last century. A collection of all sorts of things from cigarette butts and pictures to wristwatches and soda bottles. Everything was displayed in really interesting ways. There were lots of keepsake box type things and some had lights and music. It all followed the novel chronologically. I met a couple from Ontario there. They were really nice. From there I went towards Istiklal, passing by plenty more antique shops. I know where I'll be doing my souvenir shopping. Like I said, I like old things.
I went to this art exhibition that I found the other day. I'm not exactly sure the context or purpose of this place, but a whole six floor building had been converted into this crazy, colorful, psychedelic, modern, spiritual, art project/masterpiece. On one floor there was a huge Buddha. There were lots of other little Buddhas as well as skulls and butterflies and pictures of Ghandi...yeah kinda crazy, but really cool. On the top floor there were pictures of the process of creating it and a gorgeous view of the Bosphorus.
I left one scenic panorama for another, heading to the Galata Tower. The other day I met one of Shima's friends, a guy named Hakan. He was Turkish, but lived in New Jersey for awhile studying, so his English had a really funny accent. Anyways, he works at the Galata Tower. I was thinking he might be a good person to talk to about my research since he speaks English pretty well. However, he wasn't there. I did go to the top of the tower to see the beautiful view.
By this time, about 2, I was dying from the heat. It has been extremely hot the last few days. I didn't bring water, plus I was hungry, so I stopped to eat. I had kebab... it was tasty. At one point in the small, open room of the restaurant, the TV was showing something about Galatasaray, a Istanbul soccer team and everyone in the restaurant started talking, I'm guessing about the game. Something crazy must have happened.
I walked back to the hostel and now I'm working again, woohoo. Sedat introduced me to a friend of his, who said I could interview him later, so that's exciting. He's a historian, so it should be good. It's my first "interview", so wish me luck!
Gurushuruz!
I went to this art exhibition that I found the other day. I'm not exactly sure the context or purpose of this place, but a whole six floor building had been converted into this crazy, colorful, psychedelic, modern, spiritual, art project/masterpiece. On one floor there was a huge Buddha. There were lots of other little Buddhas as well as skulls and butterflies and pictures of Ghandi...yeah kinda crazy, but really cool. On the top floor there were pictures of the process of creating it and a gorgeous view of the Bosphorus.
I left one scenic panorama for another, heading to the Galata Tower. The other day I met one of Shima's friends, a guy named Hakan. He was Turkish, but lived in New Jersey for awhile studying, so his English had a really funny accent. Anyways, he works at the Galata Tower. I was thinking he might be a good person to talk to about my research since he speaks English pretty well. However, he wasn't there. I did go to the top of the tower to see the beautiful view.
By this time, about 2, I was dying from the heat. It has been extremely hot the last few days. I didn't bring water, plus I was hungry, so I stopped to eat. I had kebab... it was tasty. At one point in the small, open room of the restaurant, the TV was showing something about Galatasaray, a Istanbul soccer team and everyone in the restaurant started talking, I'm guessing about the game. Something crazy must have happened.
I walked back to the hostel and now I'm working again, woohoo. Sedat introduced me to a friend of his, who said I could interview him later, so that's exciting. He's a historian, so it should be good. It's my first "interview", so wish me luck!
Gurushuruz!
Tuesday, June 12, 2012
ah, controversy
hmm...my days are starting to get mixed up... so I don't really remember what days I haven't talked about, but I had a few uneventful ones, so I'll just talk about yesterday. I went inside the Blue Mosque! Exciting right?
Julien had to finish his drawings he had started there, so I went with him because I hadn't been inside either Mosque yet. The Ayasofia is a museum and its closed on Mondays, but the Blue Mosque is just a regular mosque, so tourists could go in at anytime except during prayers...which was going on when I got there. While I waited for the prayers to end I walked around and found the area of old streets and buildings of the old city. There was a small bazaar and lots of cafes. I found a rug shop that advertised with five little kittens hanging around the front of their shop. I stopped in, twice. I finally was able to enter the mosque and it really was something beautiful, but in my opinion it was a little disappointing. It was spectacular, but I wasn't wowed. The blue tiling everywhere was beautiful and the architecture as well...I don't really know anything about architecture, but there were these really awesome, huge pillars and brilliant stain glass windows. What I found most interesting though was seeing the divide between the tourists and the Muslims praying. I've been into many churches where tourists are walking around taking pictures while the faithful pray in pews, but this was different. There is a fence that divides the place in two. Tourists are not allowed to pass it. It is really crazy to see this wall of camera flashes from these people, the women in matching blue scarves handed out at the entrance, and then a wide open space with Muslim men freely walking in and out to pray towards Mecca. This great structure holds different meaning. To some it is just that, a great structure, world renowned for it's brilliance, it encourages visitors to balk in it's presence. To others, it is more than that with maybe a simpler meaning. A sacred place to find some connection to God and their faith.
After I walked through the mosque, I found Julien. It was really hot out, so he wanted to stop drawing. We found a cafe in the old city and had some beers before I had to be back to the hostel to work.
Work was uneventful really. I played music. No one checked in. I just talked to a few other people that were hanging around. But over the course of five hours, for three of them, the cat and I were the only ones in the hostel. Everyone else was out and about exploring. Eventually the hostel filled up again around 10 and things got more exciting.
When I finished working I went to talk to Daniel and Julien. Eventually a few others that were drinking and chatting in the other room joined us. I was about to go to bed around 2, but then someone started a discussion about bull fighting that ended as a three hour long argument about everything from animal rights to the state of the world. I think it was one of the most entertaining things I've seen. Around 5 am we all wandered off to bed...and yes I am up at 11...whoops. I haven't been able to sleep past 10 lately. Anyway, this is why I love living in a hostel. (not the no sleeping thing, but the entertaining and interesting discussions between people of completely different backgrounds).
I have to work again at 6, so I don't know if I will do anything today. I will probably go get a phone. That's pretty much my plan for the day.
ciao
Julien had to finish his drawings he had started there, so I went with him because I hadn't been inside either Mosque yet. The Ayasofia is a museum and its closed on Mondays, but the Blue Mosque is just a regular mosque, so tourists could go in at anytime except during prayers...which was going on when I got there. While I waited for the prayers to end I walked around and found the area of old streets and buildings of the old city. There was a small bazaar and lots of cafes. I found a rug shop that advertised with five little kittens hanging around the front of their shop. I stopped in, twice. I finally was able to enter the mosque and it really was something beautiful, but in my opinion it was a little disappointing. It was spectacular, but I wasn't wowed. The blue tiling everywhere was beautiful and the architecture as well...I don't really know anything about architecture, but there were these really awesome, huge pillars and brilliant stain glass windows. What I found most interesting though was seeing the divide between the tourists and the Muslims praying. I've been into many churches where tourists are walking around taking pictures while the faithful pray in pews, but this was different. There is a fence that divides the place in two. Tourists are not allowed to pass it. It is really crazy to see this wall of camera flashes from these people, the women in matching blue scarves handed out at the entrance, and then a wide open space with Muslim men freely walking in and out to pray towards Mecca. This great structure holds different meaning. To some it is just that, a great structure, world renowned for it's brilliance, it encourages visitors to balk in it's presence. To others, it is more than that with maybe a simpler meaning. A sacred place to find some connection to God and their faith.
After I walked through the mosque, I found Julien. It was really hot out, so he wanted to stop drawing. We found a cafe in the old city and had some beers before I had to be back to the hostel to work.
Work was uneventful really. I played music. No one checked in. I just talked to a few other people that were hanging around. But over the course of five hours, for three of them, the cat and I were the only ones in the hostel. Everyone else was out and about exploring. Eventually the hostel filled up again around 10 and things got more exciting.
When I finished working I went to talk to Daniel and Julien. Eventually a few others that were drinking and chatting in the other room joined us. I was about to go to bed around 2, but then someone started a discussion about bull fighting that ended as a three hour long argument about everything from animal rights to the state of the world. I think it was one of the most entertaining things I've seen. Around 5 am we all wandered off to bed...and yes I am up at 11...whoops. I haven't been able to sleep past 10 lately. Anyway, this is why I love living in a hostel. (not the no sleeping thing, but the entertaining and interesting discussions between people of completely different backgrounds).
I have to work again at 6, so I don't know if I will do anything today. I will probably go get a phone. That's pretty much my plan for the day.
ciao
Sunday, June 10, 2012
hostel life
The dynamics of living in a hostel are very interesting. People circulate through pretty quickly. The turn over rate for rooms is two days to a little over a week. Short stays mostly. I've been here a week and many people have come and gone, but a few that I have gotten to know will leave in the next few days. And all the while new people are coming and are leaving. I'm a constant though. And there are a few others, like shima and sedat, which is great, but it's weird to watch travelers come and go. The great thing is meeting all these different people and hearing about where they have been. I think it will have a great effect on me being as I admire many of these brave people for the things they have done. It makes my journey seem maybe a bit inconsequential in comparison, but I think it's really more about what you choose to take from it. And, since this is really my first swing at traveling or traveling independently I guess, I am okay with that. It doesn't need to be crazy or dangerous or risky as long as I am happy with it.
It is a step away from the bubbles that I have been living in all my life and that is really what I am looking for.
It is a step away from the bubbles that I have been living in all my life and that is really what I am looking for.
one week down
A week. That's nothing. I have 7 more? Wait, what? I have seen what I feel is a tremendous amount of the city, done so much, and met so many people. I know the amount of places to see and things to do in this sprawling city are outrageous and I have 7 more weeks to do and see all of it. As much as I can. Sure, I'll do the touristy stuff, really old buildings are cool. And the obscure, spontaneous stuff. Like swimming in the Bosphorus. How great. I think so. Watching someone jump off the Galata Bridge, I thought, I should do that. Why not, right? It's exciting. Sure, it's dirty and there could be -- there are-- sharks, but maybe you just have to brave it for the experience. To know what it is really like and know for yourself whether it really is scary or a road I should not wander down. Oh well. If I take the risk, (is it even a risk?) quite possibly everything could be fine. And I would come out of the Bosphorus with a greater desire to take these chances while I am in Istanbul. I think I will try it and perhaps I will find that it is so great I will dive in many times. Into the Bosphorus. I could go to the Prince's Islands. But there are beaches elsewhere. When again can I say I jumped off a bridge into one of the busiest maritime passages in the world? Don't worry, mom, I'll wear a life vest!
the language barrier
The language barrier is much less obscure as I was led to believe before arriving here in Istanbul. From what I had heard and read, I understood that the majority of Turks in Istanbul could manage in English. Being an international city, there are plenty of opportunities to learn and practice English. With so many foreigners from all over the world speaking so many different languages, I wrongly assumed that English would be the choice vehicle of communication. When looking into teaching English while here, I found that there are numerous schools in the city. And although I have seen these schools everywhere now that I am here, my assumption does not hold true. The majority of people I have encountered, that are Turkish, I have had a difficult time communicating with them because the only know a few English words. Don't get me wrong though, I love the challenge of having to communicate with someone when we have no mutual understanding of each others' language. I have only been here a week, but it seems to me that they aren't that eager to cater to tourists. Ironic, being as Istanbul is a chaotic hub for tourism. There are very few menus and signs that have English on them, which is fine, just unusual for a city like Istanbul. Perhaps Turks are not as prone to changing their ways as I imagined. Their history does proves their stubbornness to conform completely, despite the desire to "Europeanize". Of course there are many, many traditions that were forgotten in order to do so (the removal of Islam in the state with the formation of the Republic for example), but there has always been a limit, a restraint that they have held on to and reeled in whenever they have come to close to changing. It will be interesting to see if other cultural encounters are denied change because of this stubbornness. It would also be interesting to see if this is only characteristic of certain Turks...old vs young, muslim vs non muslim, etc.
Saturday, June 9, 2012
a day of art and beeeer
Yesterday Julien and I went to an exhibit at a museum called the Grand Masters. It was of the works of DaVinci, Michelangelo, and Donatello. The exhibit was in this really old building with domes and red bricks. It was gorgeous and the exhibit was really cool as well. We wandered around the building because there were a bunch of walkways and other small buildings. It was on a hill so it had a pretty good view of the water. We ventured into an area that we hadn't been to before and found this neat little street lined with little narghile cafes with outdoor seating. We had a beer there and then walked around the area. This neighborhood was really pretty and there were lots of art galleries around. Julien, being an artist, wanted to see them, so we stopped in a few. Later, we wanted to take the ferry up the Bosphorus to find somewhere to eat. Daniel (pilot from the US) joined us. We ended up walking up to Ortakoy. A neighborhood along the waterfront. The walk took close to an hour, but we ended up eating at a restaurant in this little area with shops bars along the water.
What's really great about Istanbul is all of these Beledeyesi, or municipalities, all over the city. The city is huge and spans two continents and three land masses. I'm in the center, the hub or tourism and daily life and I imagine, wrongly, that the rest of the city must be boring, uneventful, and really just nothing special. I keep thinking that I have a general sense of the city, how it's laid out and what the streets and buildings look like. But then I find myself in a new part of town that is just as lively, but completely new and interesting. It makes me want to see ALL of Istnabul, every little neighborhood. In a city with so much diversity and history, I can't even imagine what other new and wonderful areas I might come across.
After dinner we went to a cafe/bar for some beers. It was Daniel's birthday! I tried raki also. It's a Turkish alcohol that tastes like black licorice. They mix it with water in these little cups. I didn't really like it... We also smoked a narghile, which was delicious. Mint flavored. (don't worry mom, it's tobacco free). I stupidly tried to keep up with the two guys and had a little too much Efes (Turkish beer named after Ephesus! An archaeological site in southern Turkey.) At almost every place I have been to, this is the only beer they have. We took a cab back to the hostel and I passed out for the night. I'm not sure if I will do anything today. Probably just hang around...boring, I know. Sedat is going to show me how to work the reception today, so that's exciting!
What's really great about Istanbul is all of these Beledeyesi, or municipalities, all over the city. The city is huge and spans two continents and three land masses. I'm in the center, the hub or tourism and daily life and I imagine, wrongly, that the rest of the city must be boring, uneventful, and really just nothing special. I keep thinking that I have a general sense of the city, how it's laid out and what the streets and buildings look like. But then I find myself in a new part of town that is just as lively, but completely new and interesting. It makes me want to see ALL of Istnabul, every little neighborhood. In a city with so much diversity and history, I can't even imagine what other new and wonderful areas I might come across.
After dinner we went to a cafe/bar for some beers. It was Daniel's birthday! I tried raki also. It's a Turkish alcohol that tastes like black licorice. They mix it with water in these little cups. I didn't really like it... We also smoked a narghile, which was delicious. Mint flavored. (don't worry mom, it's tobacco free). I stupidly tried to keep up with the two guys and had a little too much Efes (Turkish beer named after Ephesus! An archaeological site in southern Turkey.) At almost every place I have been to, this is the only beer they have. We took a cab back to the hostel and I passed out for the night. I'm not sure if I will do anything today. Probably just hang around...boring, I know. Sedat is going to show me how to work the reception today, so that's exciting!
Ciao
Friday, June 8, 2012
Yesterday was not terribly exciting. I hung out in the hostel most of the day. For lunch I walked to a doner shop on Istiklal and had one on a pita. It was delicious. I considered this walk to be decent exercise for the day and stayed at the hostel for awhile. There were a few new people around, so everyone just hung out and chatted and a couple people painted the walls. (There are paintings everywhere, mostly of cats, because the owner allows people a night free if they paint something, usually artists). Later, Julien (one of the artists) suggested going to see a Turkish filmed, so I joined him. We first stopped at the French embassy to eat. Julien was wanting something different from the We went to a theater with only Turkish films, but it was closed. The only other theater we could find was showing American films. We watched moonrise kingdom. It was really good, very different and entertaining. I would recommend it. About half way through the movie it shut off and a couple commercials played before the screen turned off and the lights came on.... We were really confused. Who has an intermission at a movie theater? It was like 20 minutes long too. Very strange. Eventually a couple more commercials played and the movie came back on. Even when so close to American culture you find something unusual and foreign.
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
a place to live
I said earlier I would explain in more detail my living situation for the next two months. So, the last four days I have been staying in the Stray Cat while looking for a a room in a shared flat or something. I really like this hostel and I have met a lot of really cool people, including the workers and the owner. I came across an ad for another hostel offering housing in exchange for work in the hostel. I went to check it out and the owner wasn't there. The owner of the Stray Cat, Sedat, has been asking me every day about my search for a place to live, so when I came back I told him about it. A little later he asked me if I wanted to do this sort of thing at the Stray Cat, so we went next door to the cafe and had tea and cake and he told me the parameters of the job. On Sunday he is going to show me what I do and in exchange for 25 hours a week, I can stay in the hostel for free. It is perfect really. I save money on housing (which I can spend on more traveling later on) and I get to talk to and help travelers while they are in Istanbul!
It has been raining off and on today. I was out earlier when it started raining and everyone that was out just ducked under an overhang. After about 3 minutes the downpour subsided and everyone continued on with their day. This happened 3 or 4 times throughout the day. It's very different from what I am used to.
Tarlabasi and markets
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| Tarlabasi |
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| The kids playing soccer in Tarlabasi |
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| one of the abandoned buildings |
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| Tarlabasi |
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| Tarlabasi |
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| Tarlabasi |
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| The golden horn across the water |
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| Looking across from the Golden Horn |
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| At the cafe |
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| a store selling mixes of nuts |
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| rug store. these are my favorite, so colorful |
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| flag of Ataturk in front of the spice market |
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| acrobatic squirrel |
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| crazy looking kitten |
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| you can't see it in this picture, but on his back is a large thing of sour cherry juice and he pours it over his shoulder. it's delicious |
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| I like this picture because of the flag of Ataturk in front of the mosque (Ataturk was the first president of the Republic and creator of the secular state) |
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| inside of the New Mosque |
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| a couple of mosques. Not sure which ones they are |
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| The water that splits the European side of Istanbul |
must. keep. going... (just keep reading)
Today was exhausting and hot, but that's why it was great. Something good has to come from exhaustion. It was a day of exploration. We circled quite a bit of the new city and then wandered the markets in the old city.
Actually...let me start with last night because it is worth sharing. Julian and I went to get something to eat along the water at a restaurant he had spotted previously. However, when we found it, it was no longer serving food. Only nargile (water pipes). We came across Ryan and his friend Zack eating and encountering a very flamboyant and odd waiter. They joined us and we headed for the Galata bridge and decided to eat at one of the places on the underside of bridge. I had kebabs again, which were more expensive and I actually liked the pork ones I had the day before better, but they were still pretty delicious. We had a gorgeous view of the water and all three points of Istanbul. I listened to the intimidating conversation between the three guys about their travels and the politics and history of the regions they had been to recently. From there we went to Istiklal to see a show of traditional Iranian music that Julian had heard about. Unfortunately, the walk took forever and we just missed it, so we had a beer there instead. This bar was really cool and different. Located in sort of a cellar area below a building with lots of modern art and people playing drums and guitars... It wasn't a terribly exciting night, but I enjoyed it.
I think I am starting to get used to all the walking I do, but I don't think I could ever get used to the hills. The place I am staying, which is soon to become my temporary home for the next two months (I'll explain later), is located on a hill...near the bottom. This street starts at the water and ends at Istiklal. It is a third of a mile at 45 degree angle. Probably more, who knows, I'm not good at math. But in short, it's a climb. So far I've walked this an average of twice a day. It's tiring, but I'm not getting exercise any other way, so I guess it is good for me. Anyways, today we hiked the hill and over to Tarlabasi. This is the name of a street parallel with Istiklal, but it is also the name of the neighborhood to the north of it. The neighborhood is known to be dangerous, flooded with dealers, prostitutes, thieves, and other scary things because of the very low economic status of the residents and the neglect and/or direct destruction ordered by corrupt leaders over the years. The history of Tarlabasi is interesting and explains so much about the area. Don't worry, I'll make is short.
In it's day, Ottoman elites lived in the area from the mid 16th century, but the wooden buildings were wiped out from fires in 1870. The area was rebuilt in stone and was inhabited by non-Muslim craftsmen. The neighborhood sustained an exciting and successful life next to the glamorous life in Beyoglu. Unfortunately, with the inauguration of the Republic, problems arose for non-Muslims: populations exchanges, high taxes, and a few devastating pogroms, the work of Adnan Menderes, forced many of the residents of Tarlabasi to flee Turkey, abandoning their homes and workshops. The area was severely neglected in the aftermath of these population removals and in the late 80's another infamous Turkish leader ordered over 300 buildings destroyed. The abandoned and poor area has been repopulated by mostly Kurds fleeing the civil war in western Anatolia. Recently, a move to gentrify Tarlabasi and create an area of high class hotels and lofts was issued. Plans to create a modern Tarlabasi are imminent and could very well push the current poor out of their homes. (http://www.neareastquarterly.com/index.php/2011/06/11/tarlabasi-is-renewed/)
We wanted to check out this neighborhood to see a unique, historical side of Istanbul. A place not so off the beaten path, but far away from the touristic and commercial areas of Beyoglu, Cihangir, and Sultanahmet. The buildings are gorgeous, those that are still standing at least. The streets are full of people - shopkeepers,
children playing soccer, and the elderly sitting on curbs. There were five of us that went, a woman, three guys, and I, which I was glad about because although I tried not to be, I was somewhat scared. Not necessarily because it was "dangerous," but more so because i felt so out of place. I didn't want to make the people feel like an exhibition, walking around, taking pictures, and gawking at the little children. I'm sure they don't appreciate it, but I'm also sure we aren't the first tourists to find something intriguing in the ruined, yet lively neighborhood. The skeletons of stone Levantine homes are layered with rubble and trash. Staircases hang in midair, bathtubs are piled in holes, and the stench is revolting. In the midst of this ruin, the residents continue their lives. There were numerous groups of children playing soccer in the street, which seems uncharacteristic for an area said to be extremely dangerous. Of course, this is often linked to areas of low economic status, but I believe perhaps Tarlabasi is misjudged and should be cherished for it's historical and architectural attributes.
After exploring Tarlabasi, we walked quite a distance to get back to Galata near the main part of the new city. We crossed a different bridge that was polluted with cars and people. We managed to cross quite a few of these streets unscathed and stopped at a cafe. We sat on the terrace with another great view of the city. The men working it were very friendly. I had my first Turkish coffee and Turkish tea, both delicious, and played some chess. From here we kept walking along the water and then wandered into an area with lots of shops. Again the shops were almost categorized. Mostly hardware and clothing with food and candy storefronts mixed in. This led us to the Spice market. We sampled some Turkish delight - first time for this as well - and some cheese. The cheese here is sooo good here. Josh, an American that works in the hostel, led us to the shops with live animals. A variety of pets ranging from exotic birds, rabbits, cats, and dogs to squirrels, ducks, and leeches...who knows... We came out by the New Mosque. We were a little unsure about going in. I, especially, was nervous, being a girl, because I didn't want to break any sort of custom and offend anyone. We carried our shoes in plastic bags and a man helped me tie a scarf around my neck. The inside of the mosque, which is more modern than the other famous mosques of Istanbul, was breathtaking. Blue tiles covered the walls and large medallions with gold arabic inscriptions hung high in the center. I was able to discretely capture a few pictures. It was my first time inside of a mosque. Although I knew how prayers were conducted inside of a mosque, for me it was very enlightening to see it in person. After this, we had fish sandwiches from these boat kitchens that rock with the tide as the food is handed over to steady ground. It wasn't my favorite, but I'm glad I tried it. We trekked back to the hostel, luckily there aren't many hills on this walk. It was a long day, but I saw quite a bit of the backstreets of Istanbul, which is why I came here really. There is so much in this enormous city and being here for two months I hope to see all that I can. Of course, I will not miss the popular historical sites and recommend excursions, but a day like today is what makes it more than just a weekend vacation.
For those of you who actually read this...sorry it was so long! As a reward for reading it, I will post some pictures :)
Actually...let me start with last night because it is worth sharing. Julian and I went to get something to eat along the water at a restaurant he had spotted previously. However, when we found it, it was no longer serving food. Only nargile (water pipes). We came across Ryan and his friend Zack eating and encountering a very flamboyant and odd waiter. They joined us and we headed for the Galata bridge and decided to eat at one of the places on the underside of bridge. I had kebabs again, which were more expensive and I actually liked the pork ones I had the day before better, but they were still pretty delicious. We had a gorgeous view of the water and all three points of Istanbul. I listened to the intimidating conversation between the three guys about their travels and the politics and history of the regions they had been to recently. From there we went to Istiklal to see a show of traditional Iranian music that Julian had heard about. Unfortunately, the walk took forever and we just missed it, so we had a beer there instead. This bar was really cool and different. Located in sort of a cellar area below a building with lots of modern art and people playing drums and guitars... It wasn't a terribly exciting night, but I enjoyed it.
I think I am starting to get used to all the walking I do, but I don't think I could ever get used to the hills. The place I am staying, which is soon to become my temporary home for the next two months (I'll explain later), is located on a hill...near the bottom. This street starts at the water and ends at Istiklal. It is a third of a mile at 45 degree angle. Probably more, who knows, I'm not good at math. But in short, it's a climb. So far I've walked this an average of twice a day. It's tiring, but I'm not getting exercise any other way, so I guess it is good for me. Anyways, today we hiked the hill and over to Tarlabasi. This is the name of a street parallel with Istiklal, but it is also the name of the neighborhood to the north of it. The neighborhood is known to be dangerous, flooded with dealers, prostitutes, thieves, and other scary things because of the very low economic status of the residents and the neglect and/or direct destruction ordered by corrupt leaders over the years. The history of Tarlabasi is interesting and explains so much about the area. Don't worry, I'll make is short.
In it's day, Ottoman elites lived in the area from the mid 16th century, but the wooden buildings were wiped out from fires in 1870. The area was rebuilt in stone and was inhabited by non-Muslim craftsmen. The neighborhood sustained an exciting and successful life next to the glamorous life in Beyoglu. Unfortunately, with the inauguration of the Republic, problems arose for non-Muslims: populations exchanges, high taxes, and a few devastating pogroms, the work of Adnan Menderes, forced many of the residents of Tarlabasi to flee Turkey, abandoning their homes and workshops. The area was severely neglected in the aftermath of these population removals and in the late 80's another infamous Turkish leader ordered over 300 buildings destroyed. The abandoned and poor area has been repopulated by mostly Kurds fleeing the civil war in western Anatolia. Recently, a move to gentrify Tarlabasi and create an area of high class hotels and lofts was issued. Plans to create a modern Tarlabasi are imminent and could very well push the current poor out of their homes. (http://www.neareastquarterly.com/index.php/2011/06/11/tarlabasi-is-renewed/)
We wanted to check out this neighborhood to see a unique, historical side of Istanbul. A place not so off the beaten path, but far away from the touristic and commercial areas of Beyoglu, Cihangir, and Sultanahmet. The buildings are gorgeous, those that are still standing at least. The streets are full of people - shopkeepers,
children playing soccer, and the elderly sitting on curbs. There were five of us that went, a woman, three guys, and I, which I was glad about because although I tried not to be, I was somewhat scared. Not necessarily because it was "dangerous," but more so because i felt so out of place. I didn't want to make the people feel like an exhibition, walking around, taking pictures, and gawking at the little children. I'm sure they don't appreciate it, but I'm also sure we aren't the first tourists to find something intriguing in the ruined, yet lively neighborhood. The skeletons of stone Levantine homes are layered with rubble and trash. Staircases hang in midair, bathtubs are piled in holes, and the stench is revolting. In the midst of this ruin, the residents continue their lives. There were numerous groups of children playing soccer in the street, which seems uncharacteristic for an area said to be extremely dangerous. Of course, this is often linked to areas of low economic status, but I believe perhaps Tarlabasi is misjudged and should be cherished for it's historical and architectural attributes.
After exploring Tarlabasi, we walked quite a distance to get back to Galata near the main part of the new city. We crossed a different bridge that was polluted with cars and people. We managed to cross quite a few of these streets unscathed and stopped at a cafe. We sat on the terrace with another great view of the city. The men working it were very friendly. I had my first Turkish coffee and Turkish tea, both delicious, and played some chess. From here we kept walking along the water and then wandered into an area with lots of shops. Again the shops were almost categorized. Mostly hardware and clothing with food and candy storefronts mixed in. This led us to the Spice market. We sampled some Turkish delight - first time for this as well - and some cheese. The cheese here is sooo good here. Josh, an American that works in the hostel, led us to the shops with live animals. A variety of pets ranging from exotic birds, rabbits, cats, and dogs to squirrels, ducks, and leeches...who knows... We came out by the New Mosque. We were a little unsure about going in. I, especially, was nervous, being a girl, because I didn't want to break any sort of custom and offend anyone. We carried our shoes in plastic bags and a man helped me tie a scarf around my neck. The inside of the mosque, which is more modern than the other famous mosques of Istanbul, was breathtaking. Blue tiles covered the walls and large medallions with gold arabic inscriptions hung high in the center. I was able to discretely capture a few pictures. It was my first time inside of a mosque. Although I knew how prayers were conducted inside of a mosque, for me it was very enlightening to see it in person. After this, we had fish sandwiches from these boat kitchens that rock with the tide as the food is handed over to steady ground. It wasn't my favorite, but I'm glad I tried it. We trekked back to the hostel, luckily there aren't many hills on this walk. It was a long day, but I saw quite a bit of the backstreets of Istanbul, which is why I came here really. There is so much in this enormous city and being here for two months I hope to see all that I can. Of course, I will not miss the popular historical sites and recommend excursions, but a day like today is what makes it more than just a weekend vacation.
For those of you who actually read this...sorry it was so long! As a reward for reading it, I will post some pictures :)
Tuesday, June 5, 2012
CATS
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| Little baby kitty |
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| The larger cat that likes to snooze in the hostel |
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