Today was exhausting and hot, but that's why it was great. Something good has to come from exhaustion. It was a day of exploration. We circled quite a bit of the new city and then wandered the markets in the old city.
Actually...let me start with last night because it is worth sharing. Julian and I went to get something to eat along the water at a restaurant he had spotted previously. However, when we found it, it was no longer serving food. Only nargile (water pipes). We came across Ryan and his friend Zack eating and encountering a very flamboyant and odd waiter. They joined us and we headed for the Galata bridge and decided to eat at one of the places on the underside of bridge. I had kebabs again, which were more expensive and I actually liked the pork ones I had the day before better, but they were still pretty delicious. We had a gorgeous view of the water and all three points of Istanbul. I listened to the intimidating conversation between the three guys about their travels and the politics and history of the regions they had been to recently. From there we went to Istiklal to see a show of traditional Iranian music that Julian had heard about. Unfortunately, the walk took forever and we just missed it, so we had a beer there instead. This bar was really cool and different. Located in sort of a cellar area below a building with lots of modern art and people playing drums and guitars... It wasn't a terribly exciting night, but I enjoyed it.
I think I am starting to get used to all the walking I do, but I don't think I could ever get used to the hills. The place I am staying, which is soon to become my temporary home for the next two months (I'll explain later), is located on a hill...near the bottom. This street starts at the water and ends at Istiklal. It is a third of a mile at 45 degree angle. Probably more, who knows, I'm not good at math. But in short, it's a climb. So far I've walked this an average of twice a day. It's tiring, but I'm not getting exercise any other way, so I guess it is good for me. Anyways, today we hiked the hill and over to Tarlabasi. This is the name of a street parallel with Istiklal, but it is also the name of the neighborhood to the north of it. The neighborhood is known to be dangerous, flooded with dealers, prostitutes, thieves, and other scary things because of the very low economic status of the residents and the neglect and/or direct destruction ordered by corrupt leaders over the years. The history of Tarlabasi is interesting and explains so much about the area. Don't worry, I'll make is short.
In it's day, Ottoman elites lived in the area from the mid 16th century, but the wooden buildings were wiped out from fires in 1870. The area was rebuilt in stone and was inhabited by non-Muslim craftsmen. The neighborhood sustained an exciting and successful life next to the glamorous life in Beyoglu. Unfortunately, with the inauguration of the Republic, problems arose for non-Muslims: populations exchanges, high taxes, and a few devastating pogroms, the work of Adnan Menderes, forced many of the residents of Tarlabasi to flee Turkey, abandoning their homes and workshops. The area was severely neglected in the aftermath of these population removals and in the late 80's another infamous Turkish leader ordered over 300 buildings destroyed. The abandoned and poor area has been repopulated by mostly Kurds fleeing the civil war in western Anatolia. Recently, a move to gentrify Tarlabasi and create an area of high class hotels and lofts was issued. Plans to create a modern Tarlabasi are imminent and could very well push the current poor out of their homes. (http://www.neareastquarterly.com/index.php/2011/06/11/tarlabasi-is-renewed/)
We wanted to check out this neighborhood to see a unique, historical side of Istanbul. A place not so off the beaten path, but far away from the touristic and commercial areas of Beyoglu, Cihangir, and Sultanahmet. The buildings are gorgeous, those that are still standing at least. The streets are full of people - shopkeepers,
children playing soccer, and the elderly sitting on curbs. There were five of us that went, a woman, three guys, and I, which I was glad about because although I tried not to be, I was somewhat scared. Not necessarily because it was "dangerous," but more so because i felt so out of place. I didn't want to make the people feel like an exhibition, walking around, taking pictures, and gawking at the little children. I'm sure they don't appreciate it, but I'm also sure we aren't the first tourists to find something intriguing in the ruined, yet lively neighborhood. The skeletons of stone Levantine homes are layered with rubble and trash. Staircases hang in midair, bathtubs are piled in holes, and the stench is revolting. In the midst of this ruin, the residents continue their lives. There were numerous groups of children playing soccer in the street, which seems uncharacteristic for an area said to be extremely dangerous. Of course, this is often linked to areas of low economic status, but I believe perhaps Tarlabasi is misjudged and should be cherished for it's historical and architectural attributes.
After exploring Tarlabasi, we walked quite a distance to get back to Galata near the main part of the new city. We crossed a different bridge that was polluted with cars and people. We managed to cross quite a few of these streets unscathed and stopped at a cafe. We sat on the terrace with another great view of the city. The men working it were very friendly. I had my first Turkish coffee and Turkish tea, both delicious, and played some chess. From here we kept walking along the water and then wandered into an area with lots of shops. Again the shops were almost categorized. Mostly hardware and clothing with food and candy storefronts mixed in. This led us to the Spice market. We sampled some Turkish delight - first time for this as well - and some cheese. The cheese here is sooo good here. Josh, an American that works in the hostel, led us to the shops with live animals. A variety of pets ranging from exotic birds, rabbits, cats, and dogs to squirrels, ducks, and leeches...who knows... We came out by the New Mosque. We were a little unsure about going in. I, especially, was nervous, being a girl, because I didn't want to break any sort of custom and offend anyone. We carried our shoes in plastic bags and a man helped me tie a scarf around my neck. The inside of the mosque, which is more modern than the other famous mosques of Istanbul, was breathtaking. Blue tiles covered the walls and large medallions with gold arabic inscriptions hung high in the center. I was able to discretely capture a few pictures. It was my first time inside of a mosque. Although I knew how prayers were conducted inside of a mosque, for me it was very enlightening to see it in person. After this, we had fish sandwiches from these boat kitchens that rock with the tide as the food is handed over to steady ground. It wasn't my favorite, but I'm glad I tried it. We trekked back to the hostel, luckily there aren't many hills on this walk. It was a long day, but I saw quite a bit of the backstreets of Istanbul, which is why I came here really. There is so much in this enormous city and being here for two months I hope to see all that I can. Of course, I will not miss the popular historical sites and recommend excursions, but a day like today is what makes it more than just a weekend vacation.
For those of you who actually read this...sorry it was so long! As a reward for reading it, I will post some pictures :)
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