*/another day of insane amounts of walking. I want to map it out and see how far it really was, but that would take to much effort, so you're just gonna have to trust me when I say...it was long. The first time I've gotten sunburnt as well...I thought I was immune to it after so many days of walking for hours and not getting burnt. Anyways, I headed out early and took the tram over to the Golden Horn and walked from there up through the spice market towards the top of the hill where the Suleymaniye mosque is perched. So, there is a difference between becoming acquainted with the city and becoming comfortable with the city. I was acquainted within the first week of being here, but it has taken me longer to become comfortable. The visible gender issues in Turkey, I think, are what made it difficult for me to become comfortable. I've mentioned before about how in general and especially out of tourist and popular areas, there are only men around. I have become more comfortable with it though the more I walk around and realize that this is just how it is. However, I have become comfortable with this in the areas that I am also acquainted with. The new area that I walked around today was new and different. It was strange. The streets were different and the buildings. They weren't the old structures I am now used to. From the mosque, I walked to the ancient aqueduct. I couldn't pass up seeing it when I was so close. But seeing it was enough. I walked out of the mosque grounds and found it standing in front of me. A large street passes underneath of it and a small park sits next to it. The aqueduct was shelter for many homeless people. A man came up to me and started saying hello, the only english word he knows I presume. I took a picture and walked back into the quiet area of the mosque. It was cool to see a bit of Istanbul's ancient history, but especially considering the situation that surrounded it, I wasn't moved as I was with the ancient ruins of Rome... I'll save the emotional experience for Ephesus...
I headed back towards Sultanahmet and the Grand Bazaar, choosing streets at random. The winding roads eventually dropped me off at the front door of the Grand Bazaar. I have been wanting to find some long pants since all I brought are shorts and dressing more conservatively would do me good. I wasn't looking to haggle so I found some small places that sold cheap stuff. After wandering around the Bazaar, I stopped at a small place to eat in an alley. I had some delicious lamb shish with pita for what would be about 6 american dollars. It's hard not to eat this every day, but gotta save that dough for the trips I'm planning. The little restaurant was obviously a family owned place. The man sitting across from me talked through the window to the people grilling and almost every person that walked by stopped to chat with him and take a piece of watermelon that he was offering out. He went through three platters of it. He even offered me some. At one point, a woman and young girl sat down and ate with him, I'm guessing his wife and daughter. They left and he stayed. Many other people sat down to eat or talk with him. I think I mentioned before how it seems like they think of eating as an equal part of the day as any other. It's not separate and excluded. They don't take a break to eat, it is continuous with the rest of their day. There were two little boys who hung around on the winding stairs inside the small kitchen area. The grill man would have them run Ayran and money to the customers. (Ayran is a yogurt drink that's everywhere). They were so cute. There was a little girl who looked about 2 who sleepily came down the stairs to the arms of the grill man. I'm guessing her father... She was precious. They gave me free tea at the end of the meal. The man who served me started talking to me as I was leaving. He spoke english fairly well. He told me about how he leaves for the military in a few days and how he is so lucky to be going to Antalya and not to the east where all the Kurdish "terrorists" are. I was interested, but left after just a few minutes. I wish I would have stayed and talked to him more though becasue later I realized how perfect what he was telling me is for my research. I need more participants, but mostly women.
After this, I decided I could use some more walking and headed towards Istiklal and eventually to the hostel. I wanted to go to the Galata bridge to watch the sunset later. These two new zealanders and a french girl came with me. I talked with one of the new zealanders for a long time. She is teaching english in Kurdistan currently and it sounds awesome. She said it has been great for her and she has plenty of time to travel - after Istanbul, she is going to Amman. The sunset was so pretty. I can't wait to see it from Asia, which I think I will do tomorrow.
I was planning to go to Izmir, Ephesus, and Pamukkale today and for the next two days, but Sedat said it would be better to do a big round trip journey to all of the places I want to go. So, I think I will do that later in July - bring on the heat, baby!
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